On the Waterfront: Port Townsend

 A journalist sets a course for Port Townsend 
  
     My long, private affair with Port Townsend began 29 years ago this summer, when I first surveyed the waterfront from the helm of a small boat on the bay.
      It was one of those still September days when the sky was hazy blue above a dense band of autumn fog that hugged the shipping lanes. Cruising north from Seattle in my 21-foot sloop, bound for the Wooden Boat Festival, I clung to the Peninsula shore, hung galley pots from the rigging to reflect radar, occasionally rung a bell to announce my presence to any fellow mariner who cared.
     Rounding Marrowstone Point, I emerged from the fog and gazed transfixed at the Port Townsend seascape dead ahead.
      I had been here before, driven up for a weekend, strolled Water Street, snapped some photos, stopped for a beer at the Town Tavern. But the vista from Port Townsend Bay was of another place, a dreamy maritime image available only from the sea. An hour later, I eased into Point Hudson and rafted alongside a big wood-hulled halibut schooner.
     That was the day I knew I wanted to live here. It’s taken nearly three decades to make it happen. As a professional journalist, I thought I needed a city, worked 30-plus years for The Seattle Times, covered politics and environmental issues and, whenever I could get away with it, the waterfront.    When I needed to recharge my batteries, I’d come back to Port Townsend, preferably by sea.
     Now, finally, I’m here, living in a shingled cottage overlooking Discovery Bay. My wife, Mary Rothschild, is a newly-anointed master gardener well underway toward creating a garden worthy of her botanical title. I moor my 24-foot Monk sedan, vintage 1941, a short walk down the hill at the Cape George Marina.
      We’re growing to love the Mediterranean summers, the views across the strait, and even those gray, wintry gales that whip across the peninsula, seeking their shortest route south into the sound.
      I realize that the same qualities that lured us here are drawing too many more like us -- refugees from Seattle and other cities looking for a better life. And I regret that we collectively are beginning to stress the fiber of this community, driving up rents and home prices, jamming the roads, threatening to turn Port Townsend into something resembling what we left behind.
      But, for better or worse, I‘m here to stay. And now the editors of this intrepid journal have offered me a chance to write about the maritime life of my new home. As the new guy on the docks, I have much to learn. But I’ll learn it the way I know, as a journalist. And perhaps I can bring some homeport readers along on a voyage of discovery through the nature, culture and politics of this salty outpost on the edge of the continent.

      There were plenty of good reasons to live here. I wanted an authentic town, a place with a soul, a community big enough to attract a broad range of people and small enough where any one of them can help make it an even better place, a culture that equally respects people who work with their hands or with their heads, a town where rich people are welcome but where wealth is trumped by character.
      My town needs real architecture, buildings with personality, and PT is famous for that. But it also needs people who are determined to preserve that ambience. My town needs a thriving arts community with theater and music and galleries.
      My town needs a healthy business district where I can buy what I need from people knowing that my money supports neighbors and their families. It needs a good book store, and Port Townsend has three of them. I need a town able to govern itself, with a grand old city hall and courthouse full of people trying to make local government work.
      I wanted a town of smart people, critical thinkers, Democrats and Republicans, liberals and conservatives, blue collars and white collars and striped collars, Christians and Buddhists and atheists, each looking for wise solutions and each respectful of the other‘s views.
     I needed a legitimate local newspaper, and Port Townsend has this, too. Like every other town in America, people here love to trash their local paper. But the truth is that most towns of this size are stuck with flimsy rags owned by somebody who lives somewhere else. The Leader is owned and produced by people who live here, and that makes for good journalism.

     I was looking for all these qualities. But, most of all, I needed a town with an ocean. Port Townsend is many things to many people, but it is first and foremost a port. Without the port, there would be no townsend. To live here is to live with water views, ferries and foghorns, the omnipresent scent of salt air and seaweed. Walk a straight line from any point in town and, sooner or later, you’ll step into the Pacific Ocean. From our docks and picture windows, we watch that daily parade of fishing boats, cruise ships, freighters and Trident submarines steam through Admiralty Inlet.
     Many of us have our own kayaks, dories, gillnetters or wood-hulled sloops. We must own more boats per capita than anywhere in America.
    This town is home to people who need to live on the edge of the continent, and frequently yearn to escape it. We are a community of salmon fishermen and skilled shipwrights, flat-water kayakers and blue-water yachtsmen, seafood gourmets and fishmongers, PhD biologists and self-educated naturalists. We are people who don’t just play on the water; many of us work on it, harvest it, study it.
     And we understand that what we value is in jeopardy. It’s not just the ever-diminishing runs of salmon and herring and shrimp. It’s leaking septic tanks and concrete bulkheads that kill eelgrass beds. It’s million-dollar mega-homes with great views that inflate rents and home prices beyond the reach of shipwrights. It’s franchise restaurants and big-box stores that would blithely drive our neighbors out of business. It’s the threat of turning an authentic harbor town into a cutesy Kirkland or, worse still, another Aspen.
      Still, for all this, Port Townsend and its natural environment seem remarkably healthy. Many of our neighbors arrived long ago, got their piece of real estate and a share in the economy. The boatyards and hardware stores are bustling. There is the promise of a classy public project that preserves the essence of Point Hudson. So far, so good.
      I live here because Port Townsend is absolutely real, and can remain so. And I believe that good journalism can help us to understand who we are, what is important and what is not, and preserve that authenticity. This is my professional mission. I intend to learn everything I can about the culture and history, the ecology and economics of this place -- and write about it as I go.
      I’m a reporter, not a teacher. I begin this voyage with a small boat and an open mind. If I do the job, I learn at least as much from my readers as you learn from me. If you have a question about Port Townsend’s maritime life, send it my way; reporters often can get answers that other people can’t. If I get something right, I’d like to hear from you. If I get it wrong, as I know I will, let me know that as well.
     Because we sail as a crew.

Ferryasco: An ill wind doth sink the Ark of Klickitat

            In the seventh year of the third millennium, war and famine and pestilence plagued the world. But there was contentment in the Land of Jefferson. 

            The people lived quietly beside the Waters of Puget, paddling their kayaks, hiking in the woods, soaking in hot tubs, and sustaining themselves with organic soy milk and leavened breads of whole wheat grains. And to pay for these things, the people rented rooms or sold pizzas and T-shirts to travelers from distant lands who arrived at their shores aboard the Ark of Quinault or the Ark of Klickitat.

            And the people and their visitors were soothed by the harmonious chords of David the Minstrel, who plucked his Celtic harp and peddled his CDs in the upper chambers of the Ark of Klickitat, there to serenade the people and the orcas.

            Now it came to pass that Queen Christine, who ruled the northwest provinces, no longer favored the music of David, for the Minstrel and his CDs were not officially sanctioned. And thus the minstrel was banished from the upper chambers of the Ark of Klickitat.

       At hearing of this, the people were sorrowful. But, yea, the travelers continued to come to shores of the Land of Jefferson, renting the rooms and buying the pizzas and T-shirts. And, lo, the people were happy.

       But in the eighth year of the reign of George the Second, a dark, ominous cloud moved across the Waters of Puget, and settled over the Land of Jefferson.   And a great deluge soaked the lands of the southern provinces.  And snow inundated the mountains, blocking the roads. And a fierce, cold wind arose, whipping the Waters of Puget, and buffeting the homes of the people, and rocking the Ark of Klickitat and the Ark of Quinault. 

            And it came to pass that Queen Christine was greatly troubled, for her advisors reported verily that the Ark of Quinault and the Ark of Klickitat were growing old. And the advisors said unto her: “Beware, O’ Queen, for the ancient arks  were built in the Time of Moses, and they are in great danger of breaking up and sinking into the Waters of Puget.”

            And it came to pass that, on the Eve of the Feast of Thanksgiving, Queen Christine said unto the people: “Behold, the ancient arks shall be banished from the Waters of Puget. No more shall they carry tourists to the shores of the Land of Jefferson.”

            Thus it was spoken. And thus it was done.

            Hearing this, the people were contented no more. For the great storm had laid waste to the roads and bridges.  And the ancient arks were banished, thus deterring the tourists from travelling to the Land of Jefferson. And thus the merchants and moneychangers were unable to rent their rooms or to sell their pizzas and T-shirts.

            And the people descended into the streets and made a great noise, falling to the ground and rending their garments and calling aloud: “Woe unto us! What hath Christine Wrought? For the arks of Klickitat and Quinault shall sail no more!”

     Now, hearing this, Queen Christine was troubled. And she said unto the people: “Lo, my people, I feel thy pain, and I will address thy plight!” 

     And, behold, the Queen offered to build new and larger arks, carrying more travelers and more cars, with great piers and parking lots.

     But the people said unto her: “No, Great Queen! The great arks shall bring too many cars and parking lots. And this will disrupt the tranquility of the Land of Jefferson. Thou must bring back the Ark of Klickitat!”

      And so the Queen offered unto them another vessel, the Ark of Snohomish, with two great hulls and turbine engines that guzzled fuel and drove the vessel at very high speed.

      But the people said unto her: “No, Great Queen. Because the Ark of Snohomish carryeth not cars.   And, hath they not cars, the travelers will not come to our shores.”

     And, verily, when the Ark of Snohomish came, it carried not visitors from distant lands, but rather carried the people of Jefferson to the Great City to the South, where the people visited the dens of iniquity.  So the people of the Land of Jefferson were even more greatly distressed, saying unto the Queen: “The Ark of Snohomish hath only worsened our plight!”

      So Queen Christine said unto the people: “Fear not. For I shall give you a smaller vessel, the Ark of Steilacoom, and surely this shall bring happiness to the Land of Jefferson.”

     So it was that the Ark of Steilacoom sailed upon the Waters of Puget and moored at the shores of the Land of Jefferson.

      But again the people cried aloud, and fell upon the ground and rended their garments, saying: “Behold, the Ark of Steilacoom is too small, and it carryeth too few people and there shall not be enough travelers to buy our pizzas and T-shirts.”

     Now there arose from the north another dark cloud, which descended upon the Land of Jefferson, bringing even greater winds and fearsome seas.   And a great, rogue wave smote the Ark of Snohomish, breaking its doors and windows.   And another great wave smote the Ark of Steilacoom so that the car deck was awash with the green Waters of Puget.   And yet another great wave smote the very large Ark of Yakima, cracking its hull so that it sailed no more.

     Now the people were sorely afraid. And Queen Christine was even more greatly troubled, so that she cried upon the heavens, saying: “Woe upon us all! What hath we done to bring such troubles upon us all? What must we do to atone?”

     And, lo, the Waters of Puget were quieted. And winds were calmed.  And the rains subsided. And the dark clouds parted, and a very deep voice from on high said unto the Land of Jefferson:

    “Thou shalt bring back the Minstrel David. And only then shall peace return to the Waters of Puget.”

Goin Nowhere: Seattle's Transit Follies

by Ross Anderson

    Once upon a time in Seattle, on a day when rushhour traffic had ground to a halt, thousands of irate commuters rolled down their windows, stuck their heads out into a cloud of automobile exhaust, and issued a collective howl that

sounded something like: “Aaarrrgh! Somebody do something! Do anything!”

     Fifteen years, several elections and a few billion dollars later, it's about to happen. Seattle is building something.  Something that runs on rails and taxes and that promises to lure a few commuters off the roads and onto trains.

     But don't bet the family car on anything. Not yet, anyhow. No trains will run for a few more years. And Seattle has a long, dubious history of hand-wringing, public squabbling and collective changes of mind over transit. In this soggy corner of the continent, nothing stays on track for very long.

     Witness light rail, the ever-so-fashionable update of old-time streetcars. In 1996 voters approved a new light-rail route between Northgate and

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, but what Sound Transit is building hasn't reached either point. Instead, work has begun on a route from downtown to someplace in suburban Tukwila, where it is expected to run out of gas.

And then there's the ever-popular monorail, which promised to whisk commuters from Ballard to West Seattle via downtown, but instead became the Little Billion Dollar Train That Couldn't, God rest its ever-hopeful soul.

      Whatever does or doesn't get built, the outlook is grim for long-suffering Seattle motorists—years of heavy construction along major thoroughfares

in downtown, up 15th Avenue Northwest to Ballard, in West Seattle and down the Rainier Valley. At least for now, expect far more buses on downtown streets, as light rail displaces them in the downtown tunnel.

     But never mind the obstacles. Local voters are determined—this time, really, truly. A new survey, sponsored by the Regional Transportation

Investment District, shows the following:

  • Most voters consider traffic the region's biggest problem.

  • A majority would vote for a regional tax package that includes money for both transit and oads.

  • Building light rail to the airport is the highest priority—higher than expanding I-405 or the SR 520 bridge or replacing the decrepit Alaskan Way Viaduct.

     Ask and ye shall receive. If construction proceeds as planned (don't laugh—it's just hypothetical), then sometime in the next few years, it will be theoretically possible for a Ballard resident to ride public transit all the way to Sea-Tac Airport.  Without taking the express Metro bus. To accomplish this, Ms. Ballard will catch her local Metro bus downtown. Somewhere along Second Avenue, she will climb off the bus and find her way downstairs into the transit tunnel to climb aboard a southbound streetcar, which will clatter south

into the Duwamish flats, then turn east into a new tunnel under Beacon Hill to Rainier Valley, then turn south again, eventually wending its way to Tukwila. There she will disembark and step aboard another bus, which will take her to the airport.

     By the time our intrepid traveler reaches the airport, she will have traveled some 20-plus miles on three different transit vehicles operated by three different agencies. After all this, airport security will look like a model of people-moving efficiency.

     Which means Ms. Ballard will probably do this only once. Next time, she'll take a cab, a shuttle, or the express Metro bus.

    Puget Sound is about to get a transit system designed and operated not by a committee, but by a multitude of committees. Sound Transit is doing light rail and commuter rail. The Seattle Monorail Project is no longer building you-know-what. The folks at Metro Transit continue to run the buses, no doubt rolling their eyeballs at the newcomers and their newfangled choo-choos. Pierce and Snohomish and Kitsap counties still operate their own overlapping transit systems. Washington State Ferries, which delivers thousands of commuters to the city every day, hopes somebody will remember to connect with its Seattle boats. There's the state Department of Transportation, Amtrak, the feds ... and on and on.

    The PR folks and Web sites assure us that these projects are proceeding nicely. But, in keeping with Seattle tradition, there are skeptics out there, a growing school of well informed detractors who argue that Seattle's

construction binge has all the makings of an enormous train wreck. After taxing itself several times over for rail transit, greater Seattle, they warn, is on track for a major case of buyer's remorse. These are not your typical not-in-my-back-yard reactionaries. They are credible urban progressives to whom rail transit is supposed to be an article of faith, right up there with gun control and abortion rights.

    Prominent among them are people such as Emory Bundy, whose environmental credentials include time at the helm of the Bullitt Foundation. There is Maggie Fimia, a smart and earnest Democrat and former King County Council member, MIT educated transportation consultant John Niles,

former Democratic State Rep. Will Knedlik, former Democratic Gov. Booth Gardner and many more.

     At some point, the editorial board at Seattle Times, the state's largest newspaper and a longtime booster of rapid transit, flipped its position and now advocates abandoning those rail projects.

     What's their beef? Light rail is obsolete, they argue. It's 19th-century technology. It's slow. It runs mostly on the surface, obstructs traffic, collides with cars, knocks down pedestrians. Running it through the downtown tunnel will displace scores of buses, putting them back on downtown streets.

    And it won't ease congestion, Niles emphasizes. For all those billions, he claims light rail will reduce rush-hour traffic by less than 1 percent. "It’s like tearing one page out of the Seattle phone book and trying to see a difference."

    The monorail was a slightly better idea, Niles says. But heavy rail makes fewer stops and thus requires dense populations—lots of high-rise apartments and clustered business. Seattle doesn't have that kind of density and doesn't want it.

     Rail won't work in Seattle, these detractors say. And Seattle can't afford to launch multibilliondollar rail projects—not in the midst of a continuing tax revolt and a Republican administration unfriendly to urban transit. Sound Transit, they argue, can't afford to build even its scaled-back project, thanks to Initiative 776, the voter-approved measure that rolled back the vastly unpopular car tax. ST continues to collect and spend that money while lawyers try to figure out how to rationalize two contradictory laws. 

     What happened to Seattle's dreams of a rapid transit system zipping through its downtown core? Why is it that our sister cities, Portland and Vancouver, British Columbia, with similar economics and demographics, have been able to build nifty little rail systems while Seattle squabbles over rival technologies and scarce tax revenues? Where did Seattle's train veer off

track? And, most important, whom can we blame? Local leadership? Well, they are apparently doing precisely what voters told them to do, aren’t

they?

    Or how about taxpayers themselves, the regional body politic, who passed ballot measures to build rail transit, then passed more measures to repeal

the taxes that were supposed to pay for the projects, and then changed its mind and dumped the monorail idea?

    Or we can blame it all on geography, which has always been the city's greatest asset as well as aggravation. All those glacial-carved hills and lakes and waterways may be easy on the eyes, but they pose major problems for anybody trying to get from Point A to Point B. This is particularly true of rail transit. Portland and Vancouver built their systems largely on river flats, which lend themselves to rail. Seattle's hills, which run north to south, do not.

     And we can wag fingers at our predecessors, all those nice people who repeatedly voted down earlier transit projects when it could have been done on the cheap. As far back as 1911, voters had a chance to approve a grand city makeover designed by a New York engineer named Virgil Bogue, who proposed a regional system of subways, elevated trains and streetcars  stretching around Lake Washington. Voters rejected the plan by a 2-1 ratio.

     But even then, the city had built up a 70-mile network of cable-car and streetcar lines, including the "interurban" car that rattled back and forth to Everett.

    Then came Henry Ford, and the jig was up for rail. As Americans fell in love with their cars, the streetcars were hauled off to the scrap yards, replaced by diesel buses courtesy of General Motors. The last interurban streetcar left Seattle in 1939. That was the same year a new Lake Washington bridge opened the way for an Eastside population boom.

     And in the early 1950s, Seattle built the Alaskan Way Viaduct, one of the nation's first "freeways," designed to move commuters past the downtown bottleneck to and from jobs at Boeing and the industrial area. A decade later,

bulldozers were clearing the way for Interstate 5, which was to be the backbone of a grid of freeways slicing across the citys, much as they have in Los Angeles.

    That was too much for laidback Seattle. In the 1970s, the city rebelled against concrete, killing the RH Thompson Freeway, which would have run up the east side of the city and another across South Lake Union.

     But the same voters rejected rail transit proposals n 1968 and 1970. It didn't seem necessary. The Boeing Bust of that period had resulted in a

decline in population, real estate values and traffic. Seattle's only traffic problem was a lack of traffic. In 1972, just 31 million riders boarded Seattle buses, less than a quarter of the 1944 ridership.

     Then Seattle got hot and stayed hot, fueled by some combination of Boeing and Microsoft and grunge rock. Thousands of people were moving to the region—more people, more cars, all crammed into a network of roads and buses dating as far back as the 1950s. Something had to give.

    Metro, which began as a regional sewer authority in the 1960s, took on transit long before voters in 1994 approved merging it with King County. It had pushed for such innovations as high-occupancy vehicle (HOV) commuter lanes, the free-ride bus zone downtown and the bus tunnel. Ridership grew gradually, reaching 75 million in 1992—a big improvement.

    As traffic got worse, voters started having some second thoughts about rail transit. But it was too late, says former mayor Charles Royer. “By the time we were poised to do it, the federal government was backing off. Our transit system got built in Atlanta. That money was supposed to be ours.”

     By the mid-’90s, the situation was becoming desperate. Long touted as the nation's most livable city, Seattle was fast becoming one of its most gridlocked. In the Texas Transportation Institute's most recent ratings of 75 U.S. cities, Seattle's traffic ranked fourth-worst in the nation. Seattle's gridlock ranks closely behind Chicago and San Francisco–Oakland and not so far behind the perennial champion—Los Angeles.

    And here we are. So we turn to the critics. If not light rail, if not monorail, then what should we build?

    How about something that doesn't ride on rails—like buses?

     The money now being spent on light rail and monorail could be diverted to something called “Bus Rapid Transit (BRT),” they say, which has all the advantages of rail transit but with the added flexibility of a vehicle that is not confined to rails.

     “We already have a mass transit system that is established but unfinished,” argues Maggie Fimia, a New York City native who grew up riding rail transit. “When the region rejected rail 20 years ago, there was a conscious decision to go with express buses. We spent $1 billion on the nation's best system of express buses, with 200 miles of HOV lanes that operate around the clock.”

     A bus system will never be as sexy as a gleaming, stainless-steel monorail, says transportation consultant Niles. But it's infinitely more flexible. Build a railroad, and it’s there to stay, while bus routes can be shifted to suit changing needs. “Our alternative is not an icon," says Niles, "but we think the region could make the bus work better.”

    That means using the latest technology, such as hybrid engines fueled by a combination of oil and electricity. Or dedicated lanes, much like the bus tunnel, that can whisk buses past freeway traffic jams.

     But don't bet on BRT either. Seattle has had it with buses. They conjure up images of groaning diesels, clouds of exhaust, and oddball seatmates.

They're small-town transit. The Emerald City wants transit befitting a major-

league metropolis, a system akin to what Virgil Bogue proposed nearly a century ago.

    So hold onto your Ms hats and your wallet. Never mind that buses are cheaper and more flexible. After a century of indecision, frustrated commuters now say they want trains—even if they have no intention of riding them. So, for

better or worse, for richer or poorer, for good times or bad times, it appears that Seattle shall have its choo-choos.

The Strange Voyage of the Fiddler's Dream


    Strolling through the Port Townsend Boat Haven feels like a tour of other people's maritime fantasies, the shells of aging vessels that were supposed to rescue somebody from a complicated life and carry them off to Shangri-La. How many of those voyages end prematurely on a tattered blue plastic tarp tacked to this graveled graveyard? 
    But for every dream abandoned there is another realized, like that of Steve and Judy Dundas. Perched on a corner among the hauled-out fishing boats is their "Fiddler's Dream," an eye-catching, 48-foot schooner with a shapely, wineglass hull of deep blue steel, varnished fir spars, a deck and house crafted from hand-picked hardwoods, and a story to be told even before she's afloat.  
   Sometime this month, Fiddlers‚ Dream will be hoisted and lowered into Townsend Bay for her first sweet taste of seawater, thus completing the first leg of a strange saga that began four years ago on a mountaintop near Missoula, Montana. Along the way, she had to be skidded through the lodgepole pines, down a dirt road at the brink of a 300-foot cliff. But more on that later. 
    Fiddlers' Dream is the personal vision of Steve Dundas, a tall, quiet former Californian who describes himself as a iconoclastic loner. Some 35 years ago, he was drafted to play pro football, but instead found himself patrolling Vietnam's jungle rivers with the Navy Seals. After the Navy, he wandered the country, learned to sail with a friend in Maine, met his bride-to-be in Vermont, tried farming in Idaho and later in rural South Dakota, and finally took up woodworking in Missoula.

    He and Judy loved Montana, especially their 40-acre homesite 1,000 feet above the town, bordered on three sides by the Rattlesnake Wilderness. But eventually they grew tired of the hard winters and began conjuring up a vision of a stout, sturdy sailing ship.

   He studied scores of plans before deciding on a 75-year-old design by John Alden ˆ a beamy, gaff-rigged schooner with a classic sweeping sheer line. The choice had mostly to do with aesthetics. "The schooner rig may not be the most practical, but it is the prettiest on the planet," he argues.

    Dundas had never built a boat. But he has spent much of his life as a farmer, doing what needs to be done. Judy, an experienced nurse, worked fulltime to support his habit. 

   While the hull was designed for wood, Dundas opted for steel. "It's cheap, durable, and I could build it myself," he says. He made the necessary conversions, lofted the design at full-scale onto plywood, ordered a truckload of 3/16-inch steel in 400-pound sheets, and went to work  alongside the house, at the top of that mountain.

   It took 20 months, 150 individually-cut sheets of steel and a full mile of welds, but eventually the deep-draft hull took shape. "It's not perfect," Dundas said. "Fitting and bending steel into a traditional hull is tough. If you look closely, you'll see my mistakes, some hard angles and edges. But most of that will be beneath the waterline."

   Over time, Dundas became a familiar face at the local recycling center and tire shops, scavenging scraps of lead to be melted down for the 18,000-pound keel.  The salon, galley, bunks and cabinetry took another two years. The result is sheer art, a rustic masterpiece constructed of Virginia oak, purple heartwood, black locust, cherry and more, much of it salvaged by friends or set aside by a nearby sawmill.

   This year, as he applied finishing touches, the couple sold their Missoula place and bought an 11-acre homesite on Stuart Island in the San Juans. Which forced the issue. It was time to move that boat ˆ all 45,000 pounds of her ˆ off that mountain.

    Dundas had tried to anticipate this challenge. He'd built the boat on a steel cradle set on skids, ssentially a custom-built steel sled. So, when the time came, he contracted with a well-known boat transporter who brought in a trailer and equipment. "They took one look at the road and turned white," he laughs. "Another outfit came in, moved it 20 feet, lifted it onto the trailer, and the trailer collapsed. They gave up."

   Eventually, they found a local mover who reverted to Dundas' original idea ˆ to move it down the mountain on the sled. So off it went, one bulldozer pulling, another pushing along that narrow, dirt road, a mile and a half down the mountain. "It was a bit surreal," Dundas says, "watching this schooner move through the pine trees."

   Finally, the bizarre contraption arrived at the valley floor, where it was loaded onto a trailer and trucked off to Port Townsend. 
    A month later, Steve and Judy Dundas are living in the boatyard, stepping masts, fitting sails from Carol Haase's loft at Point Hudson and applying finishing touches to the good ship Fiddlers Dream. If all goes right, she'll be sailing by late August.
   It's been an amazing journey, Dundas says, but perhaps not so unusual in this salty corner of Puget Sound. "Port Townsend seems to attract real characters, people who aren‚t fazed by challenges," he says. "You walk through this boatyard, and I have to guess we see more interesting boats than any yard in the West." 

   Dundas could have saved a little time and money by shipping his schooner to another port. But Fiddlers Dream would not have fit well in those Seattle marinas jammed rail-to-rail with big, white luxury yachts that rarely leave their slips. Down at the Boat Haven, she's just another maritime fantasy waiting to be sailed and lived.

The Big Shakedown: Seattle's Legacy of Crooked Cops

Seattle’s legacy of crooked cops

   It’s a soggy September afternoon on Seattle’s First Avenue. The drizzle seems to wick the Skid Road stench out of the gutters, suspending it like a chlorine cloud. About 20 young Seattle cops in raincoats huddle on a side street, wondering just what they’re about to do. Assistant Chief Tony Gustin, the operation’s instigator and commander, briefs them, then leads the way. Tall, lanky, and prematurely gray, Gustin cuts a stern figureas he strides along the cracked sidewalks, past the honky-tonk bars and peep shows. He and his squad turn into Pike Place, file up the stairway behind DeLaurenti Foods, and march through the double doors of the Lifeline Club.

   Scattered around the smoke-filled hall is an unlikely crew of criminal accessories:some 80 bingo players, housewives and silver-haired ladies with Frederick & Nelson shopping bags propped against their folding chairs. They are studying rows of 10-cent bingo cards, waiting for their numbers to be called.

One of the policemen steps to the front of the hall, displays a warrant, and announces that everybody is under arrest. The baffled patronsreceive written citationsfor illegal gambling and are sent on their way, shopping bags in hand. The cops arrest about 10 of the club’s employees and investigators sift through its file cabinets, scooping manila folders into cardboard boxes and hauling them to waiting cars. Tony Gustin’s raid goes off smoothly and quietly. No sirens, no guns, no flashbulbs. The city barely notices.

The charges against the bingo players were quickly dropped. But that raid on September 24, 1969, marked a turning point in Seattle’s evolution. What Gustin was after was not the ladies with their dime bingo cards but those cardboard boxes, jammed with names and financial records ¾a window on an intricate web of illegal gambling operators, crooked cops, and venialofficials. The raid and its aftermath would send several people to jail¾not for playing bingo, but for bribery and racketeering. And they would help bring down a corrupt system that had reigned in Seattle since the 1920s or earlier. Over the next few years, Seattle would learn things about itself that it did not want to hear. And those revelations would trigger a profound transformation.

     Four decades later, Tony Gustin is 78, white-haired and long-retired, living quietly with his wife in rural Grays Harbor County in Southwest Washington. He is recovering from a recent stroke. Wearing gray sweatpants and T-shirt, he shuffles around his doublewide, filled with stacks of books and current issues of Mother Jones and The Progressive. He rarely discusses his 25 years as a Seattle cop, but when he does it is with a grim sense of irony, savoring the fact that a gaggle of middle-class housewives playing bingo at the Pike Place Market proved the undoing of a citywide reign of vice and corruption.

   Seattle in the sixties was a middling-sized, middle-class city with nice neighborhoods and plenty of well-paying jobs down at the Boeing plants. But it suffered from a sort of civic schizophrenia; it was at once Sunbelt and Rust Belt, a New West mecca striding toward a hip, high-tech future and an aging industrial town anchored in the politics and culture of the Great Depression. It had built the world’s first jetliners and staged a futuristic world’s fair celebrating the next century’s technological promise. But it remained conservative and inward-looking, run by balding businessmen from leather chairs in the paneled salon at the Rainier Club. The average age of its City Council members was 66, and most had been in office for 12 years or more. Other than the Space Needle, only two buildings had gone up downtown since World War II.

    The city was also split by race and class. Real estate agents knew where black families could buy (the Central Area) and where they couldn’t (almost everywhere else). Asian immigrants crowded into what was then known as Chinatown. Gays were tolerated as long as they didn’t stray from their bars around Pioneer Square. Civilization ended abruptly west of Second Avenue and south of Yesler, leaving Skid Road, the Market, waterfront and Chinatown to seedy bars and cardrooms, catering to gamblers, sailors and other less savory visitors. City Hall clung to an odd set of blue laws designed to keep a lid on booze, gambling and sex. Bars were closed on Sundays, and gambling was ostensibly limited to charity bingo and nickel-ante card rooms. Even pinball games and pool tables were deemed offensive and required city licenses.

    At the same time, Grandma was allowed to have her gambling, under cover of charity.“There was bingo all over town, and it was legal if they were benefitting a church or charity,” says Doug McBroom, a federal prosecutor then and a Superior Court judge now. “They were frequented by retirees, a major social thing. The Lifeline Club was the biggest, and they had to have that charitable hook, so they passed along 10 bucks a week to a church.”

    A cadre of young Turks, lawyers and other professionals, many of them with Ivy League degrees, had begun agitating for change.  They were oblivious to any problems with the cops; they thought the city had outgrown its blue laws, but didn’t realize whose interests those laws served. They didn’t understand how Seattle’s Establishment managed things, or how tenaciously it would cling to power.

     Gustin learned that civics lesson early. He grew up in rough-and-tumble Aberdeen, where his father managed a sawmill. He studied psychology and the classics at the University of Washington, and in 1952 joined the Seattle Police Department, where he thought he could put the psychology he’d learned to use on the street. He may have been the city’s best-read cop, a college kids who could quote Cicero or issue a string of profanities, often in the same sentence.

     He was on the streets a few months before he realized that many of his pals were on the take. “I was down at Precinct 3, the South End,” he recalls. “There wasn’t a lot of money down there. That’s where guys got sent if they didn’t want to be part of the system, or if they were being penalized for not splitting their take properly.”

    At first it was just idle talk around the precinct house, then the occasional envelope, stuffed with cash, passed discreetly up the chain of command. Bit by bit, Gustin became acquainted with what was called the Tolerance Policy. The city’s prudish laws ran counter to a street culture that thrived on vice: booze, gambling, sex, drugsand various combinations thereof. Bars could play by the rules, or break the law and pay the cops to look the other way. Most paid. Citizens got their entertainment, the cops saw their meager paychecks enhanced by steady gratuities, and nobody got hurt. The old guard genuinely believed the Tolerance Policy was good for business and good for the city, that it kept the Eastern Mafia out of Seattle.

     To keep things orderly, Gustin explains, the ringleaders maintained an unorthodox system of double accounting. Most businesses had to make payoffs twice, to the beat cops and the vice squad, and these payments were recorded separately. Any collector who failed to split the proceeds could be detected by the other set of accounts. This also ensured that the vice detectives were the best-paid cops in town.

     The vice dicks tracked their business on pink index cards, with coded lists of who owed what. “Rudy 3" reminded them that an operator named Rudy paid $300 a month for his Chinatown club. If Rudy didn’t pay, he didn’t get stuffed into a car trunk Chicago-style. He would simply get frequent visits from the local beat cops, driving off customers with nightly ID checks and jaywalking tickets. Businesses paid the money or paid the consequences. ”Tolerance” had devolved into shamelessshakedowns. The system had persisted so long—at least 40 years, through the Great Depression, world war, and Boeing boom—that nobody involvedcould remember a time when the cops weren’t on the take.

     The beat cops usually collected the cash just after the first of the month. The rules of distribution were simple and clear: The beatman would pocket half and pass the rest to his sergeant, who would split it again and pass half to the lieutenant. By the time the remainder got funnelled to the top commanders, it was real money. Gustin recalls one SPD major who routinely stashed at least $35,000 cash in the ceiling of his home. Local cops had all heard the story, perhaps apocryphal, of several hundred thousand dollars that got stolen from a downtown safe but could not be reported because it was payoff cash.

     The system had persisted so long— at least 40 years, through the Great Depression, world war, Boeing boom, and world’s fair—that nobody could remember a time when the cops weren’t on the take. Nobody ever talked about it, least of all the press.  The payoffs flowed in from throughout the city, but the big money was downtown, at the Chinatown gambling joints, Pioneer Square clubs, First Avenue cardrooms, and Central Area speakeasies. Guys like Gustin who didn’t take bribes got sent to Siberia—the South Precinct station in Georgetown.

     “I suppose I should’ve turned to the other side,” he says, surveying his modest retirement digs. “I would’ve made a lot more money.  But hell, I was never really motivated by money. I remember one kid who wanted to start running games on top of his tavern, and wanted to know how much it would cost to take care of the cops. A million bucks, I told him. They all thought I was nuts.”       

    Nevertheless, Gustin’s scruples didn’t impede his career, at least at first; herose quickly to sergeant, and in 1956 was assigned downtown. “That didn’t last,” he chuckles. “They told me: ‘If you’re gonna work here, you have to play with the big boys.’ And I didn’t fit in.”

     Gustin considered blowing the whistle. He met secretly with like-minded friends, discussing what it would take to bust the system. But they had no solid evidence, and the Blue Line seemed unbreakable; cops don’t rat on cops. Even if they wanted to, whom could they talk to? Who wasn’t on the take?  “Everybody knew what was going on,” Gustin insists. “The chief knew it. The mayor knew it. The newspapers knew it, or they were brain-dead.”

    Not everyone. Much of the city knew nothing of bribes. To get in on the secret, you had to cross the line, into one of the urban subcultures that had been so carefully set apart from respectable society. Now and then, somebody would. In 1962, a young UW criminology professor named William Chambliss began hanging out in Skid Road bars in the name of sociological fieldwork. “I thought I’d get a different view of crime if I looked at it from the other side,” says Chambliss. “And people talked to me.”

     Seattle, the Skid Roaders told him, was crooked as a dog’s hind leg. Cops were on the take. Prosecutors were on the take. Everybody was on the take. Chambliss was dubious, but he persisted. Sitting in a Pioneer Square bar, he asked about the card game in the back room, and was invited to sit in at $5 a bet. Later, he watched the local beat cop walk into the manager’s office and leave with an envelope. Chambliss had witnessed his first payoff.

    When he tried to report what he had seen, nobody wanted to listen. Even Chris Bayleyand his reform-minded friends were focusing their efforts on the blue laws, not corruption. The press was looking the other way. And it was all happening on the other side of the line.

    In January 1967, the silence broke. Not even the reporters involved remember why The Seattle Times, the establishment paper, finally decided to pursue the story. It ran a series of front page stories laying out complaints by gay clubs around Pioneer Square: “Tavern Operators Describe Payoffs.” One owner claimed he was coughing up $370 a month, essentially for protection. Another reported that when he refused to pay, the police harassed his customers.

    The stories spurred a brief flurry of activity downtown. Chief Frank Ramon shuffled some beat cops and suspended a few more¾not for payoffs, but for drinking and gambling on duty. And Mayor Floyd Miller appointed a distinguished panel/commission? to investigate. One member was Assistant Chief M.E. “Buzz” Cook¾who later turned out to be a ringleader in the payoffs. The panel set up a post office box, published the address, and waited for citizens to tender complaints.

    Nothing happened. City Hall and the press got distracted by other things¾anti-war protests around the University and civil rights unrest in the Central Area. But uptown, things were stirring. The reformers had organized as CHECC (Choose an Effective City Council) to press for turnover and reforms at City Hall. CHECC managed to get two younger progressive candidates, Tim Hill and Phyllis Lamphere, elected¾hardly a revolution, but a beginning.

     The next volley came more than a year later, in mid-1968, when the Post-Intelligencer published its own report, including a grainy photograph that purported to show Ben Cichy, whose company held the licenses for some 1,500 local pinball machines and pool tables, delivering money to the home of King County Prosecutor Charles O. Carroll.

The P-I had picked a big target. Charles O. Carroll, a former UW All-American halfback, was the titular head of the local Republican Party, perhaps the most powerful politician in Seattle. He drove a big Pontiac with flashers behind the grill so he could rush to the scene of a crime. Handsome and barrel-chested, physically imposing even in his 60s, he reigned from his spacious, paneled office in the county courthouse. And, the P-I suggested, he was a player in the rackets. Whether or not he was on the take, Carroll was clearly in control. “His modus operandi was to have something on everybody,” says Bayley—just like FBI Director J. Edgar Hoover, who had the dirt to make everyone from mobsters to U.S. presidents do as he said.

    Still, nothing changed. A cop who joined the force in 1969 recalls walking First Avenue with his veteran partner. The old bull found two shots of whiskey waiting for him at each bar and tossed both down both. Rounding the corner onto Pike Street, he collected a couple cigars and an envelope full of cash. The young rookie had no choice but to tag along.

    In the summer of 1969, the system began to show cracks. CHECC was pushing more council candidates, and the newspapers were beginning to focus on the cops, Carroll, and the Tolerance Policy. Emboldened, Tony Gustin teamed up with two like-minded assistant chiefs, Gene Corr and George Fuller. They took their story to Seattle’s genial old mayor, Floyd Miller: The department is laced with corruption, and Chief Ramon has to go.

     Gustin figured City Hall would not act until it was forced to. So he concocted the plan to raid the Lifeline Club. At the club, he recounts, “they had this nice Christian woman who was their accountant, and she told us where to find the records.” Gustin assembled a squad of young cops handpicked to avoid those on the take. He assumed he was being watched, his desk searched each night by crooked cops. So he and his co-conspirators planted memos indicating they were planning a raid up in the Central Area rather than at the Market. He didn’t reveal the actual target to his chief, nor even to his own squad.

     When the raid went down, “it was fun.” Gustin smiles. “We finally got what we needed. We didn’t want to hurt anyone, least of all those nice ladies who were just playing a little bingo. We wanted those records.”   So did a lot of other people. Federal prosecutors combed through the seized boxes, and the Internal Revenue Service photographed them. The records were loadedwith names and numbers, concise accounts of who paid what to whom going back to the 1920s. Those named included prosecutors and city councilmen. The club payroll included the wife of Tim McCullough, the former county sheriff, though she rarely actually worked. And McCullough himself, who served on the state Parole Board, was allegedto be the bag man.

    It turned out that Charlie Berger, the squat little man who ran the Lifeline Club, was grossing more than $1 million a year on bingo. “The money was unbelievable, thousands of dollars a night,” says then-prosecutor McBroom. “And the vice squad was being paid off bigtime to keep it going.” Berger paid $3,000 a month to one Frank Colacurcio, who ran nightclubs and strip joints from Alaska to Tacoma, and who knew how to work with the cops.

     Chief Ramon threw a fit. He chewed Gustin out for failing to alert him in advance and for ticketing the bingo players. But the damage was done; two weeks later, Mayor Miller fired Ramon and hired the first of a series of interim chiefs who would parade through over the next few years.

    The feds meanwhile were busily harvesting the fruits of the Lifeline raid. Since they couldn’t count on Carroll, Gustin and his alliesneeded to make it a federal case. The club records provided that leverageas well. The Lifeline operators had used beans to cover the numbers on the bingo cards¾“a game worth thousands a night, and they’re using beans,” marvels McBroom¾but decided to upgrade. “Charlie Berger had found this company in Colorado that makes bingo cards with little shutters. So they mailed off and ordered up a bunch of those cards.”

    Bingo. The Lifeline Club was doing interstate commerce. The new U.S. attorney, Stan Pitkin, launched a full-scale investigation, calling witnesses to testify before a grand jury. For weeks, newspaper and TV reporters haunted the courthouse hallways, trying to track the comings and goings of police commanders, beat cops, nightclub operators, and city officials, some of whom were snuck in through the basement in a rusty, nondescript van. “I think the city was surprised by what they were seeing,” says McBroom. “Police corruption was supposed to happen in Chicago and New York, not Seattle.”

     In February 1970, the first federal indictments came down, charging Colacurcio, Berger and several cops with conspiracy to run an interstate gambling business. Berger eventually cooperated with the feds, testifying that he believed Colacurcio’s police contacts had the power to close down his operation. Colacurcio was convicted and sent to prison. Buzz Cook, the assistant chief who had served on the mayor’s blue-ribbon panel two years earlier, was indicted for perjury; he had testified under oath that he knew nothing about the payoff system. That summer, Cook went on trial at the old federal courthouse¾the first public exposure of the Tolerance Policy. Within days, more than 100 past and present Seattle cops were implicated in open court.

    Still, Charles O. Carroll maintained his grip on the courthouse, amid rising doubts as to whether he would or could investigate the system he presided over. One by one, local civic groups and newspapers called for a county grand-jury inquiry. Early in 1970, a group of young Republicans began talking about challenging Carroll in the fall primary. They tapped Chris Bayley as their candidate; he had good party connections, deep Seattle roots, a Harvard Law degree, and a cadre of supporters. And he promised to convene a grand jury.

     In June, Bayley decided to pay a courtesy call on the incumbent. “I was ushered into his enormous conference room with the big, leather couch that had supposedly been [U.S. Senator] Warren Magnuson’s,” Bayley recalls. “Carroll was sitting at one end of that long conference table, flanked by the chairman of the party and Bill Boeing [the founder of the aerospace company], sort of like the Holy Trinity.”

    Bayley, an elfin figure with none of Gustin’s swagger or physical presence, mustered the deepest voice he could to explain why he was challenging the prosecutor: Well, some of us think it’s time for new blood. “Carroll huffed, ‘Do you understand how tough this job is?’ And the power guys nodded. There was just a disbelief that anybody could take him out.”

    Bayley ran anyway, and won. When he took office, he found that Carroll’s files had been cleaned out. Loose wires dangled under the desk¾remnants, Bayley believes, of a recording system similar to the one Richard Nixon maintained at the White House. His first task was clear: He began preparing for the grand jury inquiry he had promised. He recruited a team of young lawyers, who moved across the street to the 29th floor of the Smith Tower to get away from the cops and spies in the courthouse.There they began trying to locate and sway witnesses¾cops, tavern operators, gamblers, anyone who could help them penetrate the network.

    Convincing witnesses to cooperate was tough. Even honest cops were reluctant to testify against fellow cops, or downright terrified. Tavern owners feared testifying against cops who had the power to close them down. Prosecutors drove the streets with witnesses in the back seat, coats pulled over their heads, nervously pointing out who did what where. “We were told we were under police surveillance, so we couldn’t talk to people in the office,” recalls Evan Schwab, one of Bayley’s young lawyers. “I talked to one guy in the woods on Vashon Island. And I remember interviewing a police major who was in uniform, wearing his gun, and sweating heavily.”

    On April 12, 1971, more than four years after the first press reports, a 17-member grand jury was seated. Reporters and TV crews, barred from the courtroom, thronged in the marble hallway, and the nominallysecret proceedings dominated the news for weeks. By early summer, more than 100 past or present cops had been implicated, some for bribes dating back to 1936. The prosecutors marveled at the system’s tidiness. “In time, we could predict how much a guy was making based on where he was working and how long he’d been there,” says Dave Boerner, then Bayley’s chief deputy. “It sort of ran itself. It required agreement by a lot of individuals—the prosecutor, the police chief, the sheriff. But it was all understood. That’s the way the world worked.”     

    As the testimony spilled out, Seattle police nervously watched from across the street. At times, detectives sat in the courtroom, taking notes. Nobody was sure what they did with the information, but rumors of retaliation flew. “Drowning was the method of choice,” says Dee Norton, who covered the scandals for The Seattle Times (and whose regular courthouse beat I, a cub reporter, covered while he did). “As we understood it, they’d put somebody face down in the water and then plant a foot on their back.” Ben Cichy, the local pinball king, had drowned mysteriously in five feet of water next to his Lake Washington home in 1969. At least one other drowning death was rumored, but never proved, to be murder. Norton says he never felt threatened himself, but squad cars would occasionally park for hours in front of his Wedgewood home. It was “more harassment than intimidation.”

     Three months after being impaneled, the jury indicted 19 police and other public officials for “conspiracy against government entities.” The list included Prosecutor Charles O. Carroll and the affable city councilman Charles M. “Streetcar Charlie” Carroll (no relation), who had chaired the council committee that licensed clubs and taverns. The indictments proved the prosecution’s high-water mark. Over the months to come, Bayley’s office dropped several cases, including the one against Streetcar Charlie. Other accusees were dismissed or acquitted. The final fizzle came on May 17, 1973, when Judge JamesMifflin dismissed eight of the 10 remaining defendants, including ex-prosecutor Carroll and several high-ranking cops, for lack of evidence.

    “Proving a conspiracy, that individuals were knowingly in on it, was tough,” muses Bayley. He admits that he and his team were young and inexperienced. And they were handicapped by witnesses who demanded immunity from prosecution, or who were discredited, reluctant, or both.

     Nevertheless, dozens of suspect public officials took early retirements. The payoff system was abolished. And Seattle changed profoundly. Fueled by the police scandal, CHECC candidates wrested control of the City Council over the course of three elections and instituted wide-ranging reforms. The City adopted a new charter that transferred budget authority and other powers to the mayor’s office, which in theory could be held more accountable than entrenched council members. The old system had collapsed. “And when that happens, somebody has to come build a new system,” says Norm Maleng, one of Bayley’s handpicked prosecutors. “So we came in and tried to rebuild a system of justice on a new model, done with openness and a new ethical standard.”

    Despite their dismal record at winning convictions, Chris Bayley and his aides went on to successful careers. Bayley served two terms as prosecutor, practiced law for several years, and in 1983 became senior vice president of the Burlington Northern railroad conglomerate.After retiring, he ran unsuccessfully for the U.S. Senate and started Stewardship Partners, which promotes voluntary environmentalism by farmers and other landowners. Maleng succeeded Bayley as prosecutor in 1979 and has held the job ever since, widely respected but hardly a powerbroker. Boerner became a law professor, McBroom a judge. Chambliss, the UW professor who crossed the line, went on to a distinguished career at George Washington University. One of his books, “On the Take,” describes his experience with the payoff system.

     Tony Gustin stayed on for seven more years at the Police Department. “ I was too damned obstinate to leave,” he says.   The corruption was cleaned up, but the bitterness lingered. He was demoted twice, ostensibly because he refused to name his SPD informants, who had helped bust the payoff system. “I’d sworn I wouldn’t name names,” he says. “It was a question of integrity.” The demotions “helped me understand what I was made of.”

     Though few crooked cops were actually convicted, many others lived to regret taking bribes. Gustin recalls one old friend who had to sit down with his daughters and explain why he’d been on the take. “The money was poison. It just about killed him.”

    Eventually, Gustin destroyed his notes and files. It was all too sordid and painful. “Still, I was a pariah.” He shrugs. “I’d get nasty notes in the mail. In their eyes, I created disorder, and Caesar said, man can’t tolerate disorder. I suppose there were guys who would have liked to shoot me, but I knew they didn’t have the guts.” When he finally retired in 1977, “they could have held my retirement party in a phone booth.”

    Gustin finally realized his ambition of becominga police chief¾first in American Samoa, then in Sandy, Utah, where he ran things his way, “like a total asshole¾you don’t accept so much as a free cup of coffee. The guys on the street didn’t like it, but when I left, I think they respected me for it.”

    Eventually Gustin retired to the country, a few miles from where he grew up. He reads avidly, thinks hard, and worries at how quickly Seattle moved on and forgot this ugly chapter in its history, making it all the more likely to happen again. The lesson he draws from the payoff scandals is an ancient one: “Power corrupts. We elect people and then we ignore them.

    “There is no limit to human greed, nor to human cruelty. It’s our curse.”

Tags:

On the Waterfront: Tall Ship U

Tall Ship U: Higher education at sea 
 
   When Jesse Maupin stepped off the tall ship Lady Washington this month, he was the same tall, handsome, blue-eyed youth who climbed aboard nine months earlier.
     But, then again, he wasn’t. He was a year older and a lifetime wiser. Jesse had graduated from time-honored Tall Ship U, the ancient institute of the high seas.  At age 19, he’s learned things many people won’t learn in a lifetime – not just the physics of wind and waves and sails, but the greater lessons of personal integrity and humility, of leadership and organizational behavior.
    A couple of years ago, he confesses he didn’t have a clue. As a Port Townsend High School student, he was something of a misfit. A poor student, he took to wearing gothic black, made poor choices and was suspended twice.
    "The social atmosphere didn’t work for me," he says. "We were punks. We did things for shock value. I wasn’t coping."
    Eventually, he transferred to the school’s Mar Vista alternative program, which focuses on individual learning. Each Thursday, class convened at Point Hudson, where students climbed into the Bear, one of the heavy, traditional longboats operated by the Wooden Boat Foundation at the Northwest Maritime Center. Each of the kids gripped an oar, and rowed the open boat out into the bay. When the wind blew, they raised the sails.
    For Jesse, things began to click. His parents are both avid sailors, and Jesse had learned to sail small boats at his grandparents’ summer home on the shores of Lake Ontario in upstate New York. This was something Jesse knew and loved, something he was good at.
    "I liked the freedom of being in control of your environment," he says. Then he stops to think. "And also being out of control, at the mercy of the wind and the sea. It helps me clear my mind. Just me and the elements."
    Last summer, he graduated to the volunteer crew of the Lady Washington. A frequent summer visitor to the Port Townsend waterfront, the "Lady" is home-ported in Aberdeen, where she was launched in 1989 to help celebrate the bicentennial of Capt. Robert Gray’s exploration of these waters in 1792. At 112 feet, but just 68 feet on deck, she sails as a non-profit educational enterprise, relying largely on volunteer crew.
     She’s also something of a Hollywood personality, having served as Johnny Depp’s command in Disney’s film "Pirates of the Caribbean."
     Jesse’s joined the crew in September, at the end of the Wooden Boat Festival.
He was astounded by the intricate spider’s web of lines and spars that control 11 sails atop the stout wooden hull.
     As the rookie, he drew menial duties – swabbing decks, cleaning toilets, polishing brass, raising and lowering flags.
     "That was Ok with me. My job was to learn the boat, and the only way to do that is to watch and listen and try things one at a time. It may look easy, but when you’re actually under sail, you have to know what you’re doing, which line is which, and what it does. That takes time."
     Jesse’s personal voyage renews an ancient tradition. For centuries, young people have climbed aboard tall ships to see the world, and to find themselves. Those journeys inspired leaders from Columbus to Kennedy, writers from Melville to Conrad.
     Capt. James Cook, perhaps the most famous sailor of all time, first went to sea as a teenager. On his historic third voyage around the world, when he explored these Northwest shores, he did so with a raw, young crewman by the name of George Vancouver. A generation later, Vancouver returned as the captain of his own voyage of discovery, placing Port Townsend and Puget Sound on the world map. His longboats, in turn, inspired the Wooden Boat Foundation to build a replica – the longboat Bear.
    So Jesse’s personal odyssey merely continues the cycle. His first volunteer stint on the Lady was just two weeks. He came home, and promptly decided he wanted to go back. He rejoined the crew at Sausalito, where it stopped on its annual fall voyage to Southern California.
     A month later, he was promoted to storekeeper. A few months later, he rose again, this time to bosun’s mate – managing the sails at the staggering executive salary of $500 a month. He loved the vessel, loved his fellow crew members. He loved climbing aloft in a 25-knot wind. He loved sailing through the night, steering by the stars. And he was learning to like himself.
    "I get seasick every time we’re out in heavy seas," he says. "But it doesn’t matter. I get over it. And we work together out there. We’re a family, moving from one port to another port. We’re never in one place for very long."
     By this spring, Jesse had been on the boat longer than any his crewmates. The student had become the teacher. The rookie had become the seasoned sailor.
     And what had he learned? Jesse peers across Port Townsend Bay as he thinks about it.
"I’ve learned that I’m far more adaptable than I ever knew. I can endure exhaustion, seasickness, cramped living quarters. I’ve learned that privacy is greatly over-rated."
    The Lady Washington may be an elegant sight, but the living conditions are rugged. Most of the 12-person crew sleeps in one small room, which they share with the galley table, cook stove and three heads. Crew are climbing in and out of their bunks around the clock. If somebody snores, you learn to ignore it. If you need privacy, you climb into the rigging, or you go home..
    "But maybe the most important thing I’ve learned is humility," Jesse adds. "It doesn’t matter how much you know about that ship. Nobody can sail it alone. It takes a crew. You have to work with people. There has to be one skipper, and you have to do what you’re told."
    Sometimes, getting along with people requires extraordinary measures. Jesse recalls cruising in heavy seas and a 25-knot wind when the topsail came loose and began flapping in the gale. He and a mate climbed aloft to secure it.
    He was already feeling seasick. But, 60 feet up the main mast, the ship’s roll is amplified. And so is the motion sickness.
    "We lashed the sail, and I could feel my stomach turn. I knew I was going to lose my breakfast, but I had to time it so that we were heeled over."
    The seasoned sailor made his deposit over the Pacific Ocean, not the deck of his own ship. Jesse earned an "A" in maritime sociology.
     Back on shore, Jesse has been looking to the future. He wants to visit his crewmate and new girlfriend in Southern California. He’s thinking about more schooling, or finding another ship.
   But there was one more job to do. The Lady Washington was sailing back up the coast, and needed a bosun’s mate. He’s back on board for a few weeks, doing graduate work at Tall Ship U.

Northwest Totems: Still Standing


   Somewhere out there in America, Internet entrepreneurs are selling "Northwest Coast-style totem poles" on eBay for prices starting at about $30. These totems are hand-carved and hand-painted, 20 to 30 inches tall, and they look very Northwest. I know, because I bought one. And today it sits on my fireplace mantel with the rest of my growing collection of model totem poles.  I like it.
   But it's worth noting that said totems are hand-carved by a family in Indonesia. They may be Northwest "style," but they are definitely not Northwest Coast.
   So it goes with the quintessential icon of the Pacific Northwest. Once upon a time, the people who lived in this soggy corner of the continent whittled away at native cedar logs and created exquisite renditions of Northwest creatures, real and mythical — bears and orcas and frogs and the obligatory, spread-winged Thunderbird. Painted in blacks and earthy reds, those sculptures were instantly recognized as distinctly us. 
   Today, our icon belongs to the world. Click onto eBay and search for "totem," and you will get hundreds of hits. You will find Navajo totems, Iroquois totems and Seminole totems. You will find totems made of plastic or cast iron or cardboard, painted in every imaginable hue including phosphorescent yellow and pink. You will find totem pole salt-and-pepper shakers, made in China. You will find totem-shaped whiskey or perfume bottles, spoons and candles and door knockers and bottle openers. You will find Muppet totems, and Winnie the Pooh totems and, yes, Mickey Mouse totems, with Mickey sitting atop Goofy, selling for $25 or more.
   Here and there, you may find the odd legitimate Northwest model totem — skillfully carved from red or yellow cedar, in symmetrical forms and signed by the artist. And it's nice to know that totems carved or believed to be carved by Northwest Native Americans still bring the best prices — frequently into three and four digits.
    But most of what's for sale out there is about as Northwest as pepperoni pizza. The totem pole has been yanked from the bosom of the Northwest. It has been borrowed, altered, derived and effectively corrupted into terrible things that bear no real resemblance to the little model totem poles we know and love. And somehow it doesn't seem right.
   And somehow it seems perfectly appropriate, because we started it. The desecration of the Northwest Coast totem pole started right here at home. Consider:
    • Totem poles are not native to Puget Sound Country. Historians tell us that totems as we know them were part of the culture of just three coastal tribes — the Haida, Tlingit and Tsimshian — who lived hundreds of miles north of here in British Columbia and Alaska. Puget Sound Indians did not traditionally carve totems, and it is unlikely that Chief Seattle ever saw one.
    • Even those northern people carved big totems exclusively. The much smaller model totems were produced only when the tourists began to show up, shopping for souvenirs.
     • Even the word "totem" is not Northwest. It was borrowed from the Algonquian language of the Ojibwa people some 2,000 miles east of here.
   Over the past century, totem poles have traveled from the shores of the Pacific to the shelves of airport gift shops and to the brink of extinction — and back again. To a great extent, that cultural journey mirrors the recent history of the people who created the enduring art form in the first place.
   Authorities aren't sure  how long those northern Native peoples had been carving totems. The raw material being highly biodegradable, old totems have long since deteriorated, leaving little evidence of what was carved before European contact. Some early European explorers collected samples of Northwest carving, and those artifacts remain in European museums. But other explorers such as George Vancouver did not report seeing totems, leading some authorities to believe that totems were rather scarce until the newcomers arrived with iron carving tools.
Still, carving was clearly an essential part of the Northwest culture, says Robin Wright, a UW art historian who works with the Northwest collections at the Burke Museum.
   Their purpose was "to display family crests," Wright explains. "They were heraldic crests that belonged to noble families." Their most important function may have been to denote the clan association of a particular household.
   The shape and style of the art varied from one culture to the next, she says. While the northern Haidas and Tlingits carved the familiar totems, other tribes such as the Kwakiutl, who lived along the central British Columbia coast, produced handsome carvings that doubled as house posts. The Puget Sound Salish people were more likely to produce carved panels, few of which have survived.
     By the mid-19th century, as whites arrived and controlled the region, they brought the iron tools that may have enabled coastal artists to carve deeper and faster. But they also brought epidemics of smallpox and other diseases that killed thousands of people, sometimes entire villages. Then the white governments banned the "potlatch" ceremonies; the gift-giving feasts were believed to undermine the community work ethic. Since totem poles were closely related to the potlatch, they, too, were prohibited.
   Meanwhile, pioneer anthropologists and tourists descended on coastal villages and began to collect artifacts for East Coast museums. In 1899, some Seattle businessmen, touring the Alaska coast, sawed down a giant totem in the southeastern village of Tongass, shipped it home to Seattle and raised it with great fanfare in Pioneer Square. A replica of that pole still stands there.
    But the same invaders who stole and outlawed totems may also have helped save them — albeit inadvertently. By the late 19th century, steamships full of tourists were sailing through the spectacular Inside Passage, stopping in coastal villages to snap photos of the Natives. The Canadian Pacific Railroad went so far as to turn one village's totems to face passing tourists.
The tourists, in turn, wanted souvenirs, and the Natives obliged.
    "Most people couldn't pack up a full-sized totem," explains Bill McLennan, a curator at the British Columbia Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver. "They wanted something portable."
    The first models were produced by Haida carvers — and not from wood, but argillite, a soft, black, soapstone-like mineral found exclusively at a single quarry in the Queen Charlotte Islands, McLennan says. Initially, argillite was carved for trade with visiting sailors, but eventually they were sold to tourists as well.
    In time, the small sculptures proved so popular, and profitable, that neighboring tribes resumed carving. The model totems took the same characteristic forms — stylized bears, birds, whales and other regional creatures, usually painted in deep reds, blacks and greens. The government officials and missionaries who had banned the potlatch considered this enterprise to be industrious, and encouraged it.
    "There was more travel, leading to an exchange of ideas," Wright says. "Gradually, the custom moved southward."
    And beyond. The 1893 Chicago World's Fair included an elaborate display of Northwest arts — not just model totems, but entire villages with model houses and model canoes, all commissioned by Franz Boaz, the pioneer anthropologist who had collected countless coastal artifacts for Eastern museums.
   Eventually, Native Americans across the country were producing their own totems. Skilled carvers were sought out by museums and subsidized by both the U.S. and Canadian governments — especially during the Great Depression. Eventually, totems were being mass-produced in small factories.
    The market has moved overseas as well. Dorothy Martin, manager of Hill's Native Art in Vancouver, B.C., sees a steady flow of German tourists in her shop. "They're very sophisticated and interested in it," she says. "I'm told it started with German children's stories about Canada and First Nations people. Now they have clubs and perform Native dances and ceremonies." 
   Native art has become big business, supporting scores of artists and shops from Anchorage to San Francisco and beyond. A Vancouver company called Boma, founded by a Russian-Swiss immigrant, has been manufacturing resin copies of traditional argillite totems for four decades. They've expanded into prints and other artifacts, and founder Boris Mange reports they're doing just fine.
   Given today's technology, totems are relatively easy to reproduce — legally or otherwise. One well-known Makah artist sued and won when he discovered that Alaska shops were selling model totems with his counterfeit signature. A few years ago, two Seattle merchants paid $40,000 in fines for selling thousands of pieces of art advertised as Native-made when they were not.
     If globalization has watered down the original arts, it has also had benefits. Wright and other authorities emphasize that it was the tourist traffic in model totems and other Northwest arts that enabled coastal carvers to survive the grim years of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Canadian artists such as Charlie James, Ellen Neel, Mungo Martin and Ray Williams were able to make a living with their carving. They, in turn, passed their skills along to the next generation of carvers such as Bill Reid of Canada.
    Model totems from that period are scarce, and in great demand. A Charlie James totem, if it could be found, would sell for the price of a decent car.
    Robin Wright, at Seattle's Burke Museum, is trying to track down the carvings from the 1893 Fair, which were scattered across the art world. Some were preserved at the Field Museum in Chicago, but she's found others as far-flung as Brooklyn, Philadelphia and Vienna. And she's still hunting.

   Today, model toems remain a standard souvenir for visitors to this region. To sample the fare, take a stroll down First Avenue and the waterfront. Start with the gift shops around the Pike Place Market, where you'll find 6- or 8-inch totems lined up like canned goods right next to the T-shirts and miniature Space Needles. The thunderbird wings may swivel, and it may look like it was carved with a chainsaw, but that's what you get for $50 to $100.
   Look a little farther and you'll find The Legacy, which has been selling high-end regional Native American art since the 1930s. Here you can buy a 10-inch totem signed by the carver for $1,200, or a 9-foot, full-sized model for $25,000.
   The middlebrow market is a short walk down the hill at Ye Olde Curiosity Shoppe, a family-owned landmark that has been selling model totems since the 1890s. Here the door itself is framed in totems. And inside you need to get past the glass-encased mummies and plastic trinkets to find an entire corner devoted to model totems, standing wingtip-to-wingtip against the back wall.
    "I think my great grandfather had a lot of influence on the art," says Andy James, the latest of four generations who have sold totems here. "He cut pictures from a big anthropology book, loaned them to Native artists and told them: 'If you can carve this, I can sell it.' And he did." 

    James won't hazard a guess at how many totems his family has sold, except to say "thousands" — everything from 4-inch Boma replicas to 6-foot originals, at prices ranging from $10 to $1,000 or more.
    "Years ago, we had a carver who called himself Chief White Eagle who carved small totems and painted them in fluorescent colors — mainly because he had a lot of that paint," James says. "They were really awful. But we couldn't get enough of them. People came in, looked at the good stuff, then turned around and spotted those fluorescent totems, and that's what they wanted."
Behind the counter, Jim Breen specializes in totems. He sold them here in the 1960s, and has been collecting them ever since. The clientele, he says, is a mix of souvenir-hunters and serious collectors, and he can satisfy both.
    Given the opportunity, however, he pushes the work of a select few artists — particularly Rick Williams, who comes from a Canadian Nitinaht family that has been carving for generations.
These days, Williams lives with his wife and three sons in the old industrial town of Concrete in the Upper Skagit Valley. He says he's been carving for 41 years, since he was 6. He works long days, either in his shop or, weather permitting, alongside Highway 20, where he sells his work to passersby. When I talked to him, he was sharpening his Old Timer pocket knife, and packing up a 30-inch, $1,000 totem for shipment to a gallery in Switzerland.
    To this point, Williams' work does not qualify as museum art — perhaps because he is so prolific. Like all art, the value of totems is based in large part on supply, and there is no scarcity of Rick Williams totems. After all those years, he has "no clue" how many he has produced. On a good day, he can carve an 18-inch totem, or a couple of 12-inchers.
    He's aware of the competition — the molded resin copies and the overseas knock-offs. "Some guy keeps calling me, wanting to make molds and do some mass marketing or something," Williams says. "But that doesn't feel right.
    "Besides, there are plenty of people out there who want to buy my work. I don't have any trouble selling what I carve, and I'm supporting my family. What else can I ask?"
    To a casual collector, his totems are skillfully rendered, intricate and handsome. They would stand up well to those museum pieces up at the Burke.
    But what do I know? I'm the guy whose mantel is graced by a totem pole carved in Northwest Indonesia.
    I know this: That a few regional artists like Rick Williams are helping keep alive something important, an art form that helps distinguish this soggy coastline from the great sweep of homogenized American culture.
    Yes, totem poles can be copied from pictures in magazines and popped from resin molds. They can depict Apache warriors, or Mickey Mouse and Goofy. They can be sold for $10 or $10,000 and displayed in living rooms in Seattle or Switzerland.
    But our regional icon is safe as long as Williams is out there, sitting beside the highway and using a pocket knife to transform a block of clear-grained cedar into a mythical montage of Northwest orcas and brown bears topped off by a spread-winged thunderbird.

On the Waterfront: Was Drake here first?

          Rewriting history: Was Francis Drake here first?

          As maritime heroes go, Sir Francis Drake ranks right up there with Columbus and Cook, even Capt. Jack Sparrow.   So who can resist the controversial theory that Drake was the first European to lay eyes on the shores of Puget Sound – 200 years before George Vancouver and company?

          Beware, though, where you bring up this insurgent notion. It drives folks crazy down in San Francisco to even think that Drake, when he sailed the Pacific 426 years ago, snubbed SFO and cruised north to spend his summer in the Pacific Northwest.  But so goes the argument of one Samuel Bawlf, a former British Columbia cabinet minister who lives and writes a day’s sail north of here on Saltspring Island, B.C.   He lays out his extensive argument in his recent book, “The Secret Voyage of Sir Francis Drake: 1577-1580" (Douglas & McIntyre, Vancouver BC.) 

          Some of his evidence comes from our back yard, and he believes more clues remain buried along the shores of the Olympic Peninsula.

          Bawlf’s bottom line: In 1579, Drake sailed up the West Coast, bypassed California, and explored the Strait of Juan de Fuca and all the way to Southeast Alaska before turning west to cross the Pacific and eventually circumnavigate the globe.   And he sailed these waters 40 years before the pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock.  Alas, “the greatest voyage in English history was kept a secret,” Bawlf says. The British didn’t want to share any of Drake’s geographical discoveries with their Spanish rivals.

          Drake, of course, was Queen Elizabeth’s favorite sea captain, the swashbuckling “Scourge of the Spanish Main” who captured treasure-laden galleons in the Caribbean, then circled the globe at the helm of the Golden Hinde, becoming the first English circumnavigator.  History has told us he sailed through the Strait of Magellan and northward up the coast, raiding Spanish ships and settlements along the way. When he reached Northern California, the story goes, he beached his ship for repairs. Five weeks later, he set off again, headed for Asia.

          Unfortunately, none of Drake’s journals have survived to tell us precisely where he put ashore. Californians have always insisted it was just north of San Francisco Bay. But Bawlf and friends say there is a period of several weeks in the summer of 1579 when it’s not clear where he was or what he was doing.

          Over many years, Bawlf has tried to solve that mystery, traveling to Britain to study historical maps and accounts that were attributed to Drake or members of his crew. Using fragments of information, he has pieced together a theoretical route that took the Englishman up the coast and into the straits, where he hoped to find the fabled Northwest Passage across the top of the continent.  And, if he got this far, there’s no way the skipper could have resisted the temptation to come ashore in Port Townsend for a microbrew, or a slice of pie at the Chimacum Café.

          Bawlf devotes a couple hundred pages to his argument, laying out the evidence as he goes.   For example: 

          – Bits of metal, including Elizabethan coins and a 16th century English sword have been found in Northwest Indian village sites, all suggesting an English visit long before Cook and Vancouver. Some of those metal fragments, dug from the 300-year-old archeological dig at Ozette, still reside at the Makah museum in Neah Bay.

          – On his northward voyage, Drake was eventually turned back by extremely cold weather, which seems to describe the northern coast, not California.

          – A map of “Port New Albion,” where Drake beached his ship, closely resembles a bay on the Oregon Coast.   And an anonymous account of the voyage has Drake sailing to 48 degrees north, which would put him at Cape Flattery.

          – Maps credited to Drake or his crew show geography that matches nothing in California, but resembles the Northwest Coast.

          And Bawlf is intrigued by stories of an ancient anchor, raised from local waters, that sat on a Port Townsend dock for years. Bawlf would love to find that anchor, and investigative any possible link to the Golden Hinde.

          Perhaps the strongest evidence is that Drake was supposed to be looking for the Northwest Passage, and it stands to reason he would have sailed north until he found something promising – the Strait of Juan de Fuca.. This, Bawlf says, also explains why the Northwest voyage was never reported. The government took possession of any maps and journals returned by Drake and his crew, and they are believed to have been destroyed in a subsequent fire.

          Bawlf’s theory overlaps with others, especially that of Bob Ward, an English engineer and amateur historian who argues that Drake sailed north as far as Depoe Bay on the Oregon Coast, where he repaired his ship and sailed on. But Ward does not believe he got as far north as Alaska.

          Still, their theories have received mixed receptions from academic historians, and particularly those around San Francisco, which long ago adopted the Scourge of the Spanish Main with all the emotional attachment it gives to, say, Barry Bonds. Drake’s name is attached to landmarks, highways and a luxury hotel. To suggest that Englishman never actually visited is, well, unthinkable.         

          So no wonder the theory has sparked any number of articles and websites seeking to debunk it. Outraged historians argue that mavericks like Bawlf pick carefully through the available evidence, selecting only those fragments that support their idea and carefully ignoring those that don’t.     Good point. We’ve all seen people do that. Witness our President’s explanation of more recent history in the Middle East.

          So perhaps Drake’s Northwest cruise is pure fantasy. Chances are we’ll never know for sure. In the meantime, we can’t afford to entrust history entirely to people with PhDs, any more than we can hand a monopoly on politics to politicians, or religion to priests.   Historians bring to their craft plenty of academic discipline, and precious little imagination.  History is laced with gaps, lingering mysteries that cry for people like Bawlf and Ward who are willing and able to employ both sides of their brains to the challenge of unraveling those mysteries.   If they show some imagination in that effort, all the better. This, after all, is the Age of Wikipedia, where knowledge belongs to the people, and we’re all empowered to expand it.

          Besides, here on the cobbled shores of the Quimper Peninsula, Bawlf’s version of Drake’s voyage is far more fun than the conventional wisdom.

         

Hanford Reach: A Bend in the River

      PUSHING OFF FROM a muddy bank, we nose our kayaks through a clump of submerged saplings and into the gravitational pull of the Great River of The West. A few feet from the shore, our boats are gripped by the current and pulled gently but inescapably downstream. From the shore, the surface appeared deceptively calm. But here it swirls and hisses and gurgles like a pot ready to boil. We are riding a whispering torrent that drains the wet corner of a continent at a pace of more than 200,000 cubic feet of water per second, and there is no turning back.
     We are a flyweight fleet of four, drifting like flotsam toward the steel span of the Vernita Bridge, where the river collides with a dull roar against concrete columns. For decades, this bridge marked the end of the known, workaday world and the beginning of a closely kept military secret, where intruders were confronted by armed guards and helicopters.
     We have entered Hanford Reach, the last 50 miles of free-flowing, undammed river above Bonneville Dam. Few Washingtonians outside the Tri-Cities area have ever seen this place, yet its future is bubbling into a regional debate. We - Glen Sims, kayaker extraordinaire; Dan Evans, staff director and river adviser to Sen. Patty Murray; photographer Tom Reese; and myself - have come to see for ourselves.
     The river carries us eastward through an arid, treeless landscape, the most prominent landmark being the gray silhouette of Plant B, perched on the right bank five miles downriver from the bridge. Fifty-two years ago, this concrete hulk was constructed in a matter of months to produce the plutonium for the atomic bomb that leveled Nagasaki. It closed down nearly three decades ago, but the plant remains sealed tight, unsafe for human beings, tumbleweed piled against its barbed-wire fences as a reminder that the desert, given a few hundred or thousand years, intends to reclaim its turf.
     We paddle furiously across the current for a closer look. At the river's edge is a concrete pumphouse that once sucked enough river water to service the population of Seattle, pumping it through the superheated core of the reactor and immediately back into the river.
    There were several reasons wartime engineers picked Hanford for their nuclear-weapons project. It was remote, far from population centers and major highways - a good place to keep a secret. There was ample hydro-electricity. And